Lesson 03: Changing the Emotional Response

2%

Classical counterconditioning is a simple and effective training technique to change a dog’s association with an object, animal, sound, texture, experience, or person from a bad feeling to a good feeling.

This technique relies on carefully timed bits of food to teach a dog that the thing they fear predicts something fabulous.

Think "Pavlov" - the dogs learned to associate food with the ringing of the bell over the door and this, in turn, can change their emotional state AND their behaviour. 

  1. Find a novel food - something your dog has never had but is likely to absolutely LOVE. The meatier, softer, juicier the treat, the more impact the training has. Some ideas are canned chicken, canned sardines (in water, not oil!), cat food pouch, wet dog food in a squeeze tube, low-fat cheese, steak, bbq pork (without spices or sauce).
  2. Cut the treats into bite-sized pieces no larger than an M&M. Put them in an easy-to-get-to container like a bait bag, an old fanny pack, or an apron pocket.
  3. Begin happy-talking and treating your dog as soon as your dog notices the trigger.
  4. Continue treating your dog at a rate of about one treat per second for as long as the trigger is present.
  5. The moment the trigger disappears, you abruptly stop the stream of treats.
  6. Repeat the process every time your dog notices the trigger.

Rules of thumb:

  • Don’t treat your dog with the special food any other time that the trigger is not present. It must be a sacred food that they love! 
  • Make sure the scary trigger doesn’t stay in sight for too long. That might mean you have to happy-talk, treat, AND move your dog away at the same time. 
  • If your dog seems fearful, isn’t taking treats, or doesn’t become more relaxed after several repetitions, increase the distance between them and the trigger. These exercises only work if your dog is comfortable and relaxed enough to learn.
  • Treat every time your dog is exposed to the trigger. Behaviour doesn't take a day off!
  • Even if your dog is barking, start the food-stream and happy-talk. The barking is a by-product of an emotion and you are NOT using food as a reward in this context - you are using it to create an association. If your dog is barking so much that they cannot take food, all you can do is walk them away and try again later at a greater distance where they are able to take food.
  • Do NOT make the food contingent on a behaviour; never ask the dog to sit or look at you before feeding in this context. You are simply creating a prediction in your dog's mind: "when the scary thing appears, food rains from the sky...therefore, I now happily anticipate the scary thing!"

Let's observe Salinger, noticing a scary novel stimulus:


Now, classical counterconditioning in action:


Faq

What if my dog won't take the food?

What if my dog takes the food but has a "hard mouth"?

What if we can't get distance or lessen the intensity?


Now, let's put it all together!

Lessons in this Course:

Success message!
Warning message!
Error message!